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How to BYW

M

Mr.3Dman

Guest
19/2/06
Part 1

Starting your fed

This is one of the hardest things you will do for your backyard fed and purely because it involves a lot of thought.

Getting started

Before even worrying about the actual fed, you have to have some people to wrestle in it.
If you are younger, you probably should ask around your school for people who are interested in becoming a backyard wrestler. Make sure you explain to them that they must be willing to help and support your fed through to its dying day.
If you are older, try putting an ad on a BYW forum askign for people in your area.
It would be wise to have only 3 or 4 people to start up, otherwise it is hard to get everyone together and you will end up fussing over how many people will turn up rather than the actual wrestling.
once you have a group together you have a couple of very important decisions to make that will shape the future of your fed.

the important decisions

The first of these decisions is based purely on whats available; What will you wrestle on?
there are a few easy options available for beginners (as well as a couple of harder ones).
I will list them here and list the pros and cons of each:

1) Trampoline

Pros:

A lot of people already have trampolines in their backyard and if you dont have one already, you can find one cheap in a second hand store or your local trading post

They are obviously bouncy, which can help highspots, make moves look better and to a point, enhance your image by making moves easier to pull off.

It is alot harder to get injured than any of the other wrestling surface listed here

They take the impact out of almost every fall*

Cons

**The trampoline takes the imapct out of your falls by throwing you back up into the air, this can make your move look "fake" or "over controlled"

Unless you have a round or olympic sized trampoline, you will find that the trampoline is unbearably small


2) Mattresses

Pros

Easy to get from your local dump, roadside collection or dumpsters (the quality of some of these freebies is questionable, but for the most part, people throw out mattresses the second they get a musty smell or something, and that doesnt really matter when all you are using it for is wrestling right?

There is a large variation of shapes sizes available which can make your dream ring easily a reality

they dont bouce you up like a trampoline which can make moves look more ligitimate

They are lower to the ground than trampolines which means you can bring your camera closer to the action

Cons

After a log period of intense use (up to a year or two), inner spring mattresses start to lose their springyness and padding, because of this, the springs jab you in the back, which can really hurt.
(dont let this discourage you though, mattresses are easily replaceable)

They are big items that can be a hassel to store, especially if you dont have a whole lot of room

If they get wet, you wont be able to use them for a few weeks and even then, they will smell

3) Grass

Pros

Doesnt cost anything at all

you can wrestle anywhere and dont have to worry about transporting large mattresses or trampolines around

Cons

due to how hard grass is, it is difficult to do big moves without causing injury

If you botch up a move, and your opponent lands on his head, he might as well forget about ever using his feet again!

In some cases, rocks and other such debris can be hidden in grass, which for obvious reasons, wouldnt be pleasant to land on.

The HARDER wrestling areas

Permanant ring floor

I have never personally experimented / built one of these but due to their permanancy, they are an unneficient and costly thing to build but, if you really really want one, I have a link with detailed building plans

http://e.1asphost.com/SteveStrange/Ring.htm

--- HARDER RINGS WITH PLANS ---

These plans are mainly for people with the tools, money and equipment to go that little step further.

I take no credit for these plans and I found them ages ago on the internet. If you are the owner of this document, please e-mail me at [email protected]

Trampoline wrestling ring

Materials Needed
8 Steel Posts
Most Trampolines Use A 1inct To A 1 1/2Inch Post To Support So A Post That Is About The Equuivalent To That Will Work And About & Feet In Length

Tape-Electrical Or Duct Tape Either Type And Or Color 240-Foot Roll Will Work Fine

Garden Or Rubber Hose-It Is Best To Use With Steel Cable 120 Feet Is Recommended

Steel Cable (Optional)-You Will Need The 550lb Test And 3/8Inch At 120 Feet

Instructions

1. First It Is Best To Make Sure That You Have Enough Area For The Trampoline To Be Levled Out On A Flat Surface. This Has To Be On A Flat Surface Or Quite A Few Steps To This Will Be Off Just A Little.

2. Take The 8 Posts And Use 2 Posts On 4 Different Trampoline Supports That The Trampoline Is Using Bury The Supports That You Will Be 1 Foot Deep In The Ground Make Sure One Post Is On The Inside Of The Trampoline Frame And The Outside This Will Have Tripled The Support Of The Trampoline There Is No Need For Cementing But You May If You Want

3. Now Tape Up The 3 Posts On All Sides Making A Figure Eight To Line Them Up All Of The Sides Should Line Up After This

4. Now Take Your Garden Hose And Slide The Steel Cables Through To Add Spring And Support To The Ropes You Do Not Need The Cable But You Will Be Able To Jump Off The Ropes If You Use It Otherwise You Will Be Able To Just Run Into Them

5. Now Use Garden Hose To Wrap Around The 4 Posts At 3 Different Levels That You Will Select Slide The Hose Around The Posts Making A Sort Of Corner Or Turnbuckle If You Want

6. Ropes Will Need To Be Tightened Every Time You Wrestle To Prevent Injury Make Sure That You Tie The Ropes Together So That You Can Undo Them When Necessary To Tighten Them

** The Next Few Steps Ane Not Needed But Recommended**

7. It Is Good To Add Ply Wood Above The Trampoline Mat Itself This Will Take Away All The Bounce From The Mat N.B: If You Were Ever Planning On Removing The PlyWood You May want To Use Basic Support For This Such As 2x4's Under The Plywood Stapled Or Nailed Together For An Extra Support Plus It Keeps The Boards Together

8. If You Are Going To Be Using Plywood You Want To Make Sure You Have Some Carpet Padding For Extra Support Place This Down In As Many Layers As You Would Like Make Sure You Secure It With A Staple Gun

9. Now Use A Painters Drop Canvas (Sheet) To Cover The Ring Tighten That Down And You Are Ready To Rumble


$120+ Wrestling Ring (permanant)

Materials Needed
4x Wooden Posts The Larger The Post The Better It Is Here I Recommened Using A 4"x4"x9' Post

12x Turnbuckles

12x EyeHole Loops: Make Sure That The Turnbuckles Can Fit Inside The Eye Loop

1x Large Painters Drop (Canvas): To Cover You Ring You May Need 2 Depending OnThe Ring Size

1x Large Tarp: This Will Be Used Under The Canvas If You Want It Helps Keep The Ring From Rotting Away

4x60lb Bags Of Cement: Make Sure That The Cement Already Has Gravel Mixed Into It So The Only Thing You Will Need To Mix With It Is Water

2x Rolls Of String:400 Feet Long

2x Queen Size Mattresses: This Will Be Used For The Support Under The Ring

3x Twin Size Mattresses: This Will Help Add A Little More Extra Support Forr The Ring

3x Rolls Of Tape: Either Electrical Or Duct Work Best Here

1x Bag Of Sand

1x Large Container Of Plastic Liner: Can Be The Same Kind They Use In Construction This Helps Keeping The Ring From Rotting

**Instructions**

1. Find A Large Empty Spot Of Land On You Property A 15'x15' Area Will Work Best

2. Size Out The Area Of The Ring Mark It Of With A Paint Line Or Use A Garden Hose To Mark Edges Make Sure It Is Even On Every Side
As 15'x15' You May Only Need 2-Queen And Possibly Only 2 Twin For This

3. Place The Mattresses In This Area Due To Variations In Mattress Sizes You Will Have To Determine How They Fit Yourself

4. Dig Holes Into The Ground 3 Feet Deep In The Corners Of The Ring Make Sure That The Holes Are Dug Where The Corners Of The Mattresses End Now Place Wooden Posts Into Each Hole When Placing The Posts Into The Ground Make Sure That The Flat Area Of The Post Is Facing In You Will Later Need To Drill Holes For Your Turnbuckles And You Can't Do That On An Edge

5.After You Have The Posts Settled Into The Holes Mix Concrete With Water

6.Now Pile The Cement Into The Holes With The Posts This May Take Anywhere From 2 Or 3 Days To Settle You May Use Quick Crete Otherwise You Will Just Have To Wait A Few Days

7.Once The Cement Has Hardened The Drilling Process For The Turnbuckles Can BeginFirst Decide At Which Height You Want Your Turnbuckles I Do Recommened Making Holes At The 1 1/2' , 3 1/2 , 5 1/2' Marks This Would Leave 1/2' Of Space At The Top This Is If You Were Measuring From The Fround Up Whice Is The Best Way

8. Make Sure That After You Have Drilled The Holes That The Screw Side Of The Eyehole Can Loop Into The Posts

9.Place The Screw Side Of The Eyehole Loops Into The Holes Just Drilled Make Sure That The Eyehole Loops Are In All The Way As This Is A Very Crucial Part Of You Wrestling Ring

10. Hook The Turnbuckles Onto The Eyehole Loops

11. Take The Hose And Cut The Ends Off Of It UsingA Little Bit Of Sand Dump It Into The Hose Itself This Will Help Kepp It From Stretching And You Won't Have To Retighten The Ropes Daily Make Sure When Completed You Tape The Whole Hose Very Good And Tight Don't Forget The Ends Or You Will Loose Sand

12. Lace The Hose Through The Turnbuckles Pull The Hose So That It Is Extra Tight And Won't Come Loose It May Take Removing The Turnbuckles From The Eyeholes To Get The Hose As Tight As Possible Just Be Careful WWhen Re-Attaching Because If Not Attached Properly They Will Snap Off

13. When The Final Whole Hase Been Reached Lace Bothe Sides Of The Hose Through One Turnbuckle

14. Cut Off The Extra Hose Making Sure That To Tape The End Of The Hose Again Very Well To Prevent Sand Loss

15. Now Take Your Tarp And Cover The Mattresses And Tuck The Excess Under The Mattresses This Will Help Keep The Mattresses From Getting Ruined As Quickly

16. Over Top Of The Tarp It Is Also Good To Use A Painters Drop Or Canvas This Will Help Footing In The Ring

17. Do This The Same Way As You Would The Tarp But For Extra Protection Remove The Mattresse And Place A Plastic WaterProof Liner Under The Mattresses And Also Take It Over This Will Prevent The Mattresses From Rotting In A Mild And Cold Climate

18. After This You May Take Your Canvas And Put You Logo Or Whatever Looks Nice On It Now You Are Ready To Rock And Roll With Your Own Ring

$450 wrestling ring

Materials Needed

Ring Mat
5x 2"x4"x8'

4x 2"x6"x12'

6x 2"x4"x12'

1x 16'x16'x12' Think Carpet Padding

2x 1/2" Deck Screws
1x 5/9" Deck Screw
4x Tires (Possibly Free At Junkyard)
2x Old Mattresses And Box Spring Sets (Possibly Free At Junkyard)
1x 16'x16' Canvas Painters Drop Cloth
1x Box Of Plastic Liner

Ring Ropes
4x 4"x4"x8' Steels Posts Or Taller
16x Carriage Bolts Nuts And Washer Sets
12x Turnbuckles
12x Eyehooks Bolts
3x 41' Steel Cable Lenghts Of 3/8" At 550lb Test
3x Cable Clamps
1x 120' Garden Hose
1x Couch Cushion Foam
1x T-Shirt

Instuctions

1. Be Sure To Have Your Ring Mat Area Set Up First And Foremost That Way You Do Not Cement Anything In Wrongly

2. Measure Out A Sizeable Area Where You Can Easily Setup Your Ring Somewhere Within The Radius Of 12 -16 Feet Square

3.Use The Plastic Liner Wrap The Mattress And Box Spring Sets So That They Do Not Rot Away As Easily As They Would Without It These Can Double The Life Of Your Ring In Most Cases

4. Lay Mattresses And Box Springs Into This Area This Will Count As Your Total Ring Area

5. Now Place The PlyWood Over The Mattresses And Box Spring Sets Using A Tape Measure To Measure The Length Of The Sets Cut The Plywood Too That Length Leaving A Little Extra On The Ends Just To Be Sure Once The Plywood Is Set Down Be Sure To Attach It To The Mattresses So That It Does Not Slide Off While You Are Wrestling Although It Is Not A Must I Recommend That You Use Deck Screws To Attach The Mattresses To The Plywood

6. Once This Is Completed Take The Carpet Padding And Place It Over The PlyWood For Protection Attach The Padding To The Plywood And The Mattresse By Using A Staple Gun This Should Secure Everything Properly

7. From Here There Should Be A Good Fell Of The Ring From The Bounce It Will Let Off You May Want To Purchase An Extra Layer Of Padding If You Believe That There Is Too Much Bounce If So Just Place It Down As You Do The First Layer Of Padding

8. Time For The Posts If You Can Afford Steel Post Go For It As They Are Much Stronger Then The Traditional Wooden Fence Posts If You Can't Afford The Steel Wooden Ones Will Work Fine

9. Set Down The Four Tires In The Corners Of Your Partially Finished Ring Be Sure To Have Some Cement Ready To Fill In The Tire To Secure The Posts If Not Just Bury The Posts A Few Feet Into The Ground I Recommened Cementing The Posts So That The Ring Becomes Portable And That There Is No Digging Involved

10. Let Cement Settle For A Few Days It Usually Takes About 2-3 Days For Iyt To Harden Or Use Quick Crete For More Rapid Setting

11. Once The Cement Is Hardened It Is Time To Set Up The Turnbuckles

12. You May Use Whatever Measurements You Would Like For The Ring Ropes But Do Not Make The Ropes Too Close Or Too Far Apart Depending On How Big You Are Try And Make The Top Rope Somewhere Near Your Shoulder A Good Ideal Measurement Is 18" Off The Mat 16" Above That And Another 16" To The Top Rope

13. Now That The Measurements Are All Set For The Turnbuckles Use A Drill And Drill Holes For Them

14. Set The Turnbuckles In Place Making Sure That They Are Secure By Placing The Washers To Attach The EyeHook Bolts To The Turnbuckle The Ropes Will Be Going Through These Hooks So Make Sure That These Are Pretty Secure

15. Now Take Your Cable And Your Hose And Slide The Steel Cable Through The Garden Hose The Cable Is Used Mainly For Strength And To Help Give A Little Spring Be Sure To Measure That You Have Enough Rope Remember ItIs Better To Have To Much Then To Run Short About Halfway Through

16. Once The Cable Is Through The Hose Than You Are Ready To Attach Ropes To The Eyehooks On The Turnbuckles Tie One End Together So You Have Something To Work With It Is Also Good To Have Someone Help You Here

17. Slide The Hose Through The Eyeholes Making Them As Tight As Possible Pull The Ropes As Tight As You Can Until You Can't Pull Any Tighter

18. Once You Get Back To The Corner In Which You Started At Tie The Ends Together Attach The Cable Clamps In The Corners To Strength Them Even More

19. Test The Ropes By Running Into Them And Try To Climb Them They Should Be Tight Enough To Do This Otherwise Keep Tightening Until You Can You May Have To Do This Every Time You Use The Ring Also

20.To Add Color To You Ring Get A Few Different Colors Of Duct Or Electrical Tape And Use It To Tape The Ropes Many Times This Will Also Add A Little More Strength To Your Ropes

21.Now It Is Time To Add Your Canvas Covering To The Ring Cover The Padding And Tuck The Left Over Amount Into The Mattresses Yourself Also If You Want Take And Paint Your Logo On The Canvas Itself To Add A Little Taste Of Originality To It

22. If You Want Make An Apron To Go Round The Ring Like Many Federations Do You Will Need Some Bed Sheets Or More Canvas Covering

23. Now That The Ring Is Basically Complete Take Some Of The Couch Cushioning And Cover Each Turnbuckle Cover The Cushion With A T-Shirt Or Another Type Of Cloth Now Your Ready To Rumble


Professional Ring

Materials Needed

4x 10" Steel Post: The Thicker The Better

12x Large Turnbuckles

12x Eye Hoop Holes: Must Be Long Enough To Penetrate All The Way Through The Posts And Also Big Enough For The Turnbuckles

3x Rolls Or Coils Of 62 Foot Long Rubber Rope: If You Can't Find Rubber Rope Steel Cable Is A Good Substitute

4x Used Tires

4x 60lb Bags Of Ready To Use Cement (Quick Crete)

4x 16 Foot Metal Rod: 3 Or 3 1/2" Square Tubing Works As Well Or Even Better

1x 18'x18' Long Piece Of Carpet Padding: You Can Use Regular Wrestling Or Gymnastic Mats Also

1x 18'x18' Painters Drop Canvas

1x 18'x18' Piece Of Plywood: It Is Best To Use Smaller Pieces Of Plywood And Stack Them It Should Equal Out To The 16'x16' Area That The Ring Will Actually Consist Of

Instructions

1. Find A Flat Level Area Wher You Can Mark Out On An Area Of At Least 16'x16' And Place Some Markers At The Corners This Will Be The Area At Which Yoy Will Construct The Ring

2.Take The Four Tires And Place Them At The End Of The 16'x16' Area That Has Just Been Measured Out This Is Where The Posts Will Be Cemented In Another Possible Method Is Cementing The Posts Into The Ground But If You Use The Tires The Ring Will Be Portable

3. Once This Is Down Get Cement Ready For Pouring Position Posts So That They Are Set The Way The Ring Will Stand Up Pour Cement And Wait For The Cement To Harden

4. Check On The Cement A Few Times A Day To See If It Hardend Yet

5. Once Cement Has Hardened It Is Time To Set Up The TurnBuckles You May Use Whatever Measurements You Would Like For The Ring Ropes But Do Not Make The Ropes Too Close Or Too Far Apart Depending On How Big You Are Try And Make The Top Rope Somewhere Near Your Shoulder A Good Ideal Measurement Is 18" Off The Mat 16" Above That And Another 16" To The Top Rope Make Sure To Start 3 Feet Up Because The Ring Mat Will Be Up To Level There You Will Need A Very Powerful Drill For This So Be Very Careful

6. After You Have Placed The LoopholesInto The Posts Start Placing Your Ropes Through The Turnbuckles Make Sure That You Turnbuckles Are Large Enough For The Rope To Be Placed Through Before You Buy Them

7. Once The Rope Is Placed Through The Loopsholes Hook Up The Turnbuckles Onto The Eye Hoop Hooks It Will Be Very Difficult But The Only Time You Will Have To Unhook Them Is When You Want To Remove Them Unlike The Oter Ring Designs Mentioned The Ropes Will Remain Tightened And You Will not Have To Retighten Them Before Every Use

8.Measure Up From The Ground 3 Feet On Each Post Drill Thick Through The Posts So That Te Rods Will Fit All The Way Through The Posts Try And Get Thick Rod As These Will Support The Weight Of The Ring

9. Place The Rods Through The Holes Making Sure That They Ar Extremely Secure And Sturdy

10.After The Rods Have Been Secured Take Your Plywood And Place It Over The Rods You May Want To Use Some 2'x4's Under The Ring To add Some Extra Support To The Pieces Of Plywood

11. Attach These Wit Nails Screws And Staples To The Rods Below This Will Keep It From Sliding Off The Ring

12.Next Place Your Padding On The Ring You May Want To Use More Than One Layer It Is Up To You For This The More Layers You Use The Less Painful It Will Be When You Land On It Other Good Alternatives Are Futon And Mattresses

13. Now Place Your Painters Drop Canvas On Top Of The Padding And Tighten Down And Under The Ring To Help Secure It If This Is Loose You Will Have Troubles Walking OnThe Ring

14. In The Ring Corners Use Staples To Add A Little Extra Reinforcement So That The Canvas Does Not Move About

15. Now Around The Outside Of The Ring You Can Use A Few Bed Sheets Or More
Canvas To Make An Outside Overhang That Will Be Used As A Ring Apron To Cover Underneath Of The Ring This Is Not A Necessity But It Adds Some Color To The Ring

16. Around The Rubber Rope That Was Used For The Ropes Take Many Layers Of Colorful Duct Or Electrical Tape It Will Give The Ring Some Color Plus It Will Also Reinforce Them A Little

17. Now Take Some Old Couch Cushions And Some T-Shirts Or Pillowcases And Make Yourself Some Turnbuckle Padding This Can Help Add Some Look To Your Ring

18. To Add Some Outside Support To Your Ring To Protect It From Weather And Uncontrollable Actions Take Some Extra Steel Cable Tie It To The Steel Posts And Then Nail It Into The Ground This Will Help Support The Ring

19. You're Almost Finished If You Want Paint Your Logo In The Center Of The Ring And On The Aprons Now You Are Ready To Rumble

Tips And Hints

These Are A Few Reminders You Should Remember When Using These Plans

1. When Purchasing Cable, Bolts, Turnbuckle Bolts,Wood, Please Make Sure That These Items Are Strong Enough To Withstand Large Amounts Of Weight And Pressure Most Items At A Hardware Store Have Capacity Limits Listed Use The Highest Capacite Available

2.It Is Important To Make All Posts Identical If The Flooring Or The Ropes Are Not Even Then Ring Damage May Occur Make Sure The Ring Is Setup Level

3. Once The Ring Is Built It Is Advisable To Mark All The Boards Posts And All Other Materials So It Will Always Be Setup The Same Way In A Perfect World All Parts Would Be Interchangeable But The Probably Won't Be

4. It's Always Smart To Make Extra Ropes And Boards When Building A Ring If You Intend On Using THis Ring For A Show You Need Spares If A Rope Breaks In The First Match You're Pretty Much Screwed If You Don't Have A Replacement

5. Always Inspect Ring And Parts Before During And After Setup Also If This Is For A Show Inspect The Ring During Intermission Replace Any Cracked Boards At This Time

---------

As I said, I do not take any credit for those plans and I cant list their pros or cons because I havent built nor tried any.



What Type Of Fed do you want?

This is another decision that your group have to make before starting up your fed and it is undoubtably a very important decision that will determine how your fed will look and what style the wrestling is.

Remember, just because you have picked one particular style, it doesnt mean that you have to conform to these boundarys, after all, the only way BYW will continue to advance is if the envelope is pushed.
Here are the common 3 styles of BYW fed with detailed discriptions of each, !:

1) Traditional stye

This style of fed is probably the most common style of BYW promotion but easily the type that gets the least attention.
Wrestling in these feds is usually very tame and there is rarely, if at all, anything that might be considered dangerous.

This means that there are less weapons, high spots and moves that could potentialy cause injury (piledrivers, tigerbombs etc)

This is definatley the style of fed preferred by younger kids (probably ages 10 - 14 would fit right in to a traditional style fed) because of the kiddish nature of this style, characters are usually modelled solely after the wrestlers favourite big time wrestler (meaning wrestlers in / from WWE, ECW, wCw or TNA).

2) Edgy style

This style is just as common as the traditional style.
They are similar to the traditional style but tend to show a hardcore type element in their matches. This means that weapons and profanity will be included in storylines and matches as well as high spots and dangerous moves attempted more often.

the general age of wrestlers in this type of fed are 13 and up. Because of the ages of the wrestlers, more imaginative characters / storylines may be used.
On occasions, feds like this get a massive fanbase and sometimes even have shows in front of a crowd.

3) Extreme style

These feds are of the minority but, sadly, are the ones that get the most attention from the media.
In these feds, "hardcore" weapons are used regularly (light tubes, thumbtacks, fire and barbed wire to name a few), dangerous moves are carried out seemingly without the slightest reguard for safety and jumping off roofs ect. is very common.
Technical wrestling is generally not included in matches and alot of people have critised this wrestling style as having "no psychology or direction"

Injurys are common in this type of fed and it is rare to see anyone who is under 16 in one.


Remember to make the right decision based on your wrestling ability, depending on how serious about BYW you are and how you want to be viewed by the public.



Pt 1 is continued in my post a couple of slots down.
I would post it here but apparently theres a 25kb limit for posts so I couldnt just edit my original post anymore.


Paste from another forum
 
Pt 1 continued

Setting up your area

The ideal place for backyard wrestling is in a spot in where it isnt too sunny (you'd be surprised how hot you can get wrestling and standing around in the sun for several hours at a time) and where is is sheltered from wind and if you haev built a permanant time, somewhere that is sheltered from rain. This is purely up to you and your group and the decision will ultimately come down to personal preference.

Depending on how serious you are about your fed, you may want to set up / build an entrance way. This makes you look more professional and is very useful for hiding people before run-ins ect.
I have illustrated a couple of designs here to help you make up your mind.

This the the design the EWF (my promotion) uses. it looks very professional as is easy to make using stuff that is easily available.

[image]

To set this up, you simply hang the curtain up on some nails or something in front of a door. The upper level of the house really helps with this design because confetti can be dropped, pyrotechnics can be set up (I will explain the pyro in a second) and any lighting that you might choose to use.

This next design is for people who have a spare corner in their yard. This design is used by many top backyard promotions but does not have the flexibility of the above design as well as being a difficulty to build and store.

[image]

if you think these ideas are a little above you, there are many easier ways to have an entranceway, such as walking out from behind the camera or simply walking out through your back door.



Now, all you have to do is work out camera angles, come up with some interesting characters and your pretty much ready to go. For ideas on improving you fed, read on to part 2 and onwards!


20/2/06

Part 2

weapons

In this part I will detail how to make weapons easily and using as little money as possible.

1) The Kendo Stick

This weapon has long been a staple of backyard wrestling and will no doubt continue to be for a long time to come.
With this plan, you will be able to build your own for as little as $10.

What you need:

At least 6x .5mm (or bigger) peices of wooden dowel (the more the better)
White electric tape

1) Take the dowel and cut all peices for 130cm long. this is the official size for competition kendo sticks so you might as well cut it to that size but feel free to make it longer or shorter.

2) with your cut peices of dowel, tape up both ends so that all peices are secure.

3) to signify which end of the stick is the handle, make the tape go up a bit higher than the tape at the top

When you are done, your stick should look something like this:

[image]

Note: dont put any tape in the middle of the kendo stick, it makes the shots harder and it prevents that awesome CLACK noise.

There you go, in 5 minutes, you have made an awesome kendo stick.


Tables


1) Reusable table

This design is great because 1 table can last you a couple of shows, with the only downside being that the table is too flimsy to support the weight of a wrestler (for throwing your opponent onto the table, this works like a charm).

What you need:

2 sa****ses (most people already have some of these lying around, but if you dont, they are easy to make or cheap to buy)

1 large sheet of 6-10mm masonite.

[image]

As you can see, when weight is put onto the middle of the table, the board bends, forcing the sa****ses to collapse outward, producing an effect similar to WWE's announce tables


2) Reusable Table design 2

This design is great and is becoming more popular very quickly. This table might be strong enough to support someones full weight and they do a lot to break falls.
But, to continue using this type of table, a fair bit of maintanance is required.


What you need:

1x large sheet of strong (preferably thick) plywood
1x smaller but equally thick peice of plywood (could even to an offcut from the board above)
2x sa****ses (or similar)

Tools:

Hammer
Nails
Angle grinder

How To:

1) with your angle grinder, cut the large plywood board right through in 2 places (3 if you really want maintanance hell)

2) place the smaller plywood board 50 / 50 on top of your cut (make sure there is no space between the 2 peices on the top, otherwise, there may be a noticable sag in the table) - make sure you nail down through the top board and into the plywood board underneath, otherwise, you might get pricked!

3) put your table on the sa****ses (or similar) and your ready to rumble!


[image]


4) Barbed Wire Bats

Design 1

This is a style of barbed wire bat that I believe that my promotion originated. the basic idea is that there is on actual barbed wire in it but it is made look that way by the layers of chicken wire crossing over each other.

What you need:
2x4 (or other peice of wood)
at least 5ft of chicken wire (the more the better)

pretty self explanitory here, basically just wrap the chicken wire around the 2x4 and your there.


Design 2

this design does not use barbed wire either but looks EXTREMELY realistic (it even catches on shirts and stuff) yet would never hurt a fly.

What you need:

2x4 (or other wood)
10ft (more the merrier) metal wire.

Directions:

1) Wrap the first 6ft (assuming you are using 10ft) really tightly then leave an inch or so per foot afterwards

2) when that is done, every 4 inches or so up the looser wire, twist the wire into a little barb, making sure that the ends arent too pointy.

[image]

(just an example of how the wire needs to be twisted)

As I said before, this is a great design because you can see the barbs very clearly on camera and they even catch on loose clothing or hair.

You now have a really good and safe barbed wire bat! enjoy!

5) Thumbtacks

These thumbtacks look pretty good but sure are a bugger to make and clean up... do dont say i didnt warn you!

What you need:

5-10ft of reasonably thick wire (like the kind of wire in chain link fences)

A really long wrestling DVD to watch while making them (I suggest wrestlemania XX or The Chris Benoit story)

Tools:

Tin-snips (or maybe just strong scissors)

a Bucket (for your cut "tacks" to fall into)


Directions:

Simply cut your wire every half inch or so and make sure that it falls into the bucket (offcuts are a bitch to get out of your living rooms carpet floor, which I am assuming your sitting on because you are watching a wrestling DVD)

After about 3 hours, you should have callices, cuts and scrapes all over you hands and you should have a bucket about a 3rd full of safe, easy (cough) and realistic thumbtacks

Note: if you are the obsessive complusive type and cannot possibly get bored of cutting up wire, you make want to try to cut the ends on the tacks into syringe style (pictured below) points.
This way, the tacks will catch onto clothing during matches.

[image]

Thats it with part 2 for now, If I feel like adding more weapons (as I think of / invent them) I will.


Part 3

Extras to spruce up your shows


Pyro

***While this stands for the whole guide, I feel the need to especially emphasise the point now rather than at the end of the guide and that is that I take ABSOLUTELY NO responsibility for any injurys, deaths, damages ect. caused by making or using anything from this guide***

There are a number of ways to do Pyrotechnics for your shows, all of the ones listed here are cheap, easy and effective. Just keep in mind that building your own pyrotechnic devices is not a reccomended activity for people who are not able to follow the instructions set forward here in their utmost to avoid injury.

1) The dudleys style "firework from the roof"

This is really easy to set up and equally easy to operate. With that being said, it is not the bets pyro option for beginners (#2 would be more ideal for such people).

What you need:

A place higher than your entrance way

1x Aluminium Drip tray ($4 from your local car maintenance place like supercheap auto, autobarn, maybe walmart for you americans)

Methylated spirits

Half of a brick

Sparklers

Fishing line


Directions:

Fill the drip tray up about a quarter full

Drill a hole in your brick (unless there is already holes in it)

Attach a length of fishing line to your higher place with tape.

Thread the other end through the hole in the brick

Put sparkler (with the wire bit folded into a loop) onto the wire

Light

Boom! (or at least a bit of fire and some black smoke

[image]


If you dont feel confortable with this design, dont do it.


2) Sparkler pyro

This type of pyrotechnic is more suited to younger and less experienced wrestlers because it is easy, cheap & realatively safe compared to the above design
This uses the same physics as a sparkler bomb but without the explosion (this just produces alot of fire and smoke but no explosion)

What you need:

20< sparklers
Bucket with sand in it
thin metal wire (basically anything but solder)

Directions:

1) take all but 1 sparkler and bundle them together

2) insert the 1 sparkler half way into the clump (making sure that at least half of the flammable stuff is inside the sparkler clump

3) affix this structure together in 2 places (toward the top the of the clum and towards the bottom)

4) (optional) feel free to wrap a single strip of electric tape around the wire to ad strength

5) Place this bare wire first into the bucket of sand

6) light the sparkler coming out the top, this acts as a fuse and when the sparks get down into the sparkler clump, it will produce tounges of flame 50cm into the air (assuming you are using about 30 sparklers) and even higher with more sparklers.


You can see a demonstration of this method of pyrotechnic here: http://youtube.com/watch?v=mRGkXOmV9YA&search=sparklers

Admittedly, they used 720 sparklers but for someone who is just starting out, 20 - 100 is just fine!


Smoke

I cant think of an easier (and safer) way to make smoke than actually going out and buying a cheap $30 smoke machine from your local shop.
This will last you ages and the only thing you will have to worry about is buying smoke liquid (or you could just use water but to a lesser effect).
A cheap smoke machine looks something like this:
[image]
You then set it facing 45 degrees upwards through your entrace way and when it is time for your big entrance, let the smoke fly!

The HARD(er) way of making smoke

This design is similar to the recipie used to make smoke bombs which is one of the most searched for "bomb" recipie on the internet.

Credit for this recipie / instructions goes to DiasasterMaster from the pyrotech forums:


Quote:

By far, the most common smoke formula is the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar formula. It produces a white-gray smoke and is both easy, inexpensive & fun to make. The percentage of Potassium Nitrate and Sugar in this composition vary somewhat depending on who you ask, but the 60/40 mix listed below is pretty common.

A lump of this stuff the size of your thumb produces a decent sized smoke cloud in under 2 seconds.

(Tip: Do not use this recipe to make a large smokebomb. In my experience even a low oxidized mix will cath fire if large enough.)

Mixture=
Potassium Nitrate 60 %
Sugar 40 %

(Measurements by weight)

Although the two ingredients can just be finely powdered and mixed together, in recent side-by-side tests, we found that melting the two together does in fact make a superior Smoke Bomb.
To melt the mixture together, you'll need small metal saucepan or other heat resistant container, and an electric hot plate. An electric hot plate is preferred to an open flame heat source because it's a tad safer, and easier to prevent overheating of the mixture, however you may use a stove but be careful

The mixture must be heated SLOWLY, and over a LOW heat until it just starts to melt.
Heating it too quickly, or at too high a temperature will cause it to turn black, burn & ignite making a giant mess, not to mention a fire hazard. In any case, this should all be done outside just in case you overheat it does happen to ignite. As the mixture begins to melt, it will turn brown and look exactly like Carmel Candy... after all, you are melting Sugar (and no, you can NOT eat it ).
A step-by-step procedure is outlined below....

Procedure

Start by making a small size batch (50 grams total). Measure out 30 grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar into a container. If you make a batch larger than 50 grams, it will be very difficult to mix and heat evenly. You can always make more, so don't mix up a giant batch.

Cover the container and shake it to mix the two chemicals together. Pour the mixture into a heat resistant container and set it on your heat source.

Set the heat source temperature to low (medium-high for a hotplate), and about every 30 seconds or so, stir the mixture well, being sure to scrape the material that may start sticking to the bottom.

Over the next several minutes, the mixture will begin to darken and clump. It will soon begin to look like brown sugar, and when it finally mixes smoothly and looks like peanut butter, it is done. If you mixture is turning BLACK, you're heating it a too high of a temperature.

Remove the container from the heat, and scoop out a lump of the sticky mass. You can either just plop some on the concrete outside, or if you're picky about the way your smoke bombs look, you can make small cardboard molds and press the gooey mass into them. Personally, we just lay it on the concrete.

Before the little blob cools, insert a small piece of Fuse.

Continue scooping the remainder of the material and allow them to cool and harden.

In about 5 minutes, the material will be cool and become rock hard ( beware that it will stick to the surface while cooling, but is easily removed with a little knock from a hammer. ) Set your Smoke Bomb away from any flammable materials, light the fuse and stand back.
These smoke bombs burn fast and sometimes will jump around a bit. They do produce a little flame when burning, so be careful not to ignite them in or near dry grass, papers, etc. Enjoy!

Note:
The smoke from this mixture is essentially non-toxic (against common belief), but that doesn't mean you should stand in a cloud of it and breathe it all day long.
Like any smoke from burning material, people may be allergic to it, or is my cause eye irritation in some more sensitive folks.



Another way so make smoke is making the obvious route of burning something like wood but the effect created by this is mediocre at best.

Lighting your smoke

There are a number of ways to create the popular effect of coloured smoke (as used in all the major promotions for the last 20 years).

The easiest (but not the cheapest) method is to buy a karakoke light ball which looks something like this:
[image]
Now, you can now light your smoke by placing the light ball on the inside of your entranceway next to the smoke machine.

Another, very cheap way of lighting smoke is by using normal christmas tree / fairy lights around your entranceway.
[image]
These lights look ok but do not look as professional as the light ball method.
Another disadvantage is that the cheaper light bulbs will only last you for a year or so and will need to be replaced.
But hey, when a large light string is only $10, how can you go wrong?

You can also use cheap strobe lights that you can get for $5 at your local shop but with only 1 colour, it can look very dull
[image]


Sound

For your entrance music / Mic ect, a CD player set on its loudest volume should be more than adequate for a backyard fed but as you know, there are some people who want to take it that step further. This involves setting up a complex sound system that I know nothing about and dont pretend to. It is my guess that wiring instructions ect. for this type of sound system can be found all over the internet and I feel no need to post those methods here.
Instead, this section focuses of effectiveness of the sound and the positioning on the sound machine to get the ultimate effect.

Mic setup

To get a cheap microphone, go to you local cheap store (for my fellow aussies, a Crazy Clarks, Silly Sollies or warehouse store would be where to go) and look in the electronics section. You should find a basic mic that would plug into the Audio input of your CD player for only $5 - $10. To add an extra effect to your pyro setup, it wouldnt be too much of a bad idea to buy a "Y" microphone splitter and another microphone. By placing the extra microphone near your pyro setup, you will get an even better explosion noise.
For those who dont know, A "Y" splitter looks something like this:

[image]
With 2 inputs to 1 output, it greatly expands what you can do with your mic setup.


Part 4

Promoting Your Show

This question has been raised alot in the past months and as a result, I have decided to do a bigger section on it that I had originally intended / planned, so here goes:


What needs to be conveyed in an advertisement:

Who - What BYW promotion is putting on the show

What type of show it is - You can convey the message that you are having a hardcore style show by having, say, barbed wire all over your poster.

Where - Exact address, including any details of how to acess the area if any complications are likely to arise.

When - The exact time. - try not to make the event too long (or at least on the advirtisement ;D )

What they are likely to see - Words like "Action", Excitement are probably the two most frequently used words in the advirtising of wrestling shows and that is because they are very descriptive and can really win over a potential audience member.

Cost - If you really must have a cost.

If you are charging admission, why? - It is best to say proceeds are going to a reputable charity.


So it is all well and good to have these points written down here but how do you actually get this message across to the public?


frequently used Advertising stratagys:

Word of Mouth:

Pros:
Free
You can reach a large group of people at a time
You can personally answer the questions of interested people


Cons:
It is only as memorable as you make it
It can take a long time
People who lack public speaking skills will suffer


FLYERS:

Pros:
Easy to mass distribute
can also be used as a poster
can be put in shops / other well frequented areas (with the permission of all involved of course)
Letterbox drops are very effective

Cons:
Many flyers must be made
They take alot of time to design
They can end up costing quite a bit



Business cards

NOTE: business cards work better if there is a uniform schedual of shows (ie a show every weekend etc) because otherwise, it is difficult to fit in all that information

Pros
See flyers

Cons
See flyers


Local newspapers

Local rags are great for advertising your shows, especially since some papers will allow you to advirtise for free (especially if you promise them something in return) and will be seen by locals only

Pros:
Cheap and sometimes free
Easy (can be done by phone or the internet)
Will be seen by a large number of people in your area
Effective

Cons:
Cheap and free ads are bound to be small and near the back pages
Your advirtising proposal may not be taken seriously if you are under 16



Other methods

Telemarketing

Now this sounds insane but it is possible. there is a program called Adcalls that allows you to call any US phone number for free, you can get it from http://www.adcalls.com.
For those of us who arent in the US (like me) there is an equally featured program called voipbuster which you can get from http://www.voipbuster.com. Only complication is that free calls from voipbuster can only last 1 minute (which could be all you need)

Pros:
Can reach a large number of veiwers, including the rarely targeted demographic of "closet" wrestling fans

Cons:
Considered illegal in some areas (or some people think it should be illegal)
Expensive (If you use a phone that is)
Irritates people
Can take quite a while

TV

If you contact a local network and ask for some advertising space (or even for a show timeslot) the prices can go from anywhere between $50 to $1000 (depending on program length, timeslot).
NOTE: bear with me, this isnt as insane as it sounds

Pros
Reach a phenominal amount of people
Easy to get advertising space (especially local networks)
Creates an air of professionalism ("as seen on TV")

Cons:
VERY Expensive
Ads take time to make (did you really think that the network would make the ad for you?)

Pasted from another forum I am not a BYW man
 
Pt 1 continued

Setting up your area

The ideal place for backyard wrestling is in a spot in where it isnt too sunny (you'd be surprised how hot you can get wrestling and standing around in the sun for several hours at a time) and where is is sheltered from wind and if you haev built a permanant time, somewhere that is sheltered from rain. This is purely up to you and your group and the decision will ultimately come down to personal preference.

Depending on how serious you are about your fed, you may want to set up / build an entrance way. This makes you look more professional and is very useful for hiding people before run-ins ect.
I have illustrated a couple of designs here to help you make up your mind.

This the the design the EWF (my promotion) uses. it looks very professional as is easy to make using stuff that is easily available.

[image]

To set this up, you simply hang the curtain up on some nails or something in front of a door. The upper level of the house really helps with this design because confetti can be dropped, pyrotechnics can be set up (I will explain the pyro in a second) and any lighting that you might choose to use.

This next design is for people who have a spare corner in their yard. This design is used by many top backyard promotions but does not have the flexibility of the above design as well as being a difficulty to build and store.

[image]

if you think these ideas are a little above you, there are many easier ways to have an entranceway, such as walking out from behind the camera or simply walking out through your back door.



Now, all you have to do is work out camera angles, come up with some interesting characters and your pretty much ready to go. For ideas on improving you fed, read on to part 2 and onwards!


20/2/06

Part 2

weapons

In this part I will detail how to make weapons easily and using as little money as possible.

1) The Kendo Stick

This weapon has long been a staple of backyard wrestling and will no doubt continue to be for a long time to come.
With this plan, you will be able to build your own for as little as $10.

What you need:

At least 6x .5mm (or bigger) peices of wooden dowel (the more the better)
White electric tape

1) Take the dowel and cut all peices for 130cm long. this is the official size for competition kendo sticks so you might as well cut it to that size but feel free to make it longer or shorter.

2) with your cut peices of dowel, tape up both ends so that all peices are secure.

3) to signify which end of the stick is the handle, make the tape go up a bit higher than the tape at the top

When you are done, your stick should look something like this:

[image]

Note: dont put any tape in the middle of the kendo stick, it makes the shots harder and it prevents that awesome CLACK noise.

There you go, in 5 minutes, you have made an awesome kendo stick.


Tables


1) Reusable table

This design is great because 1 table can last you a couple of shows, with the only downside being that the table is too flimsy to support the weight of a wrestler (for throwing your opponent onto the table, this works like a charm).

What you need:

2 sa****ses (most people already have some of these lying around, but if you dont, they are easy to make or cheap to buy)

1 large sheet of 6-10mm masonite.

[image]

As you can see, when weight is put onto the middle of the table, the board bends, forcing the sa****ses to collapse outward, producing an effect similar to WWE's announce tables


2) Reusable Table design 2

This design is great and is becoming more popular very quickly. This table might be strong enough to support someones full weight and they do a lot to break falls.
But, to continue using this type of table, a fair bit of maintanance is required.


What you need:

1x large sheet of strong (preferably thick) plywood
1x smaller but equally thick peice of plywood (could even to an offcut from the board above)
2x sa****ses (or similar)

Tools:

Hammer
Nails
Angle grinder

How To:

1) with your angle grinder, cut the large plywood board right through in 2 places (3 if you really want maintanance hell)

2) place the smaller plywood board 50 / 50 on top of your cut (make sure there is no space between the 2 peices on the top, otherwise, there may be a noticable sag in the table) - make sure you nail down through the top board and into the plywood board underneath, otherwise, you might get pricked!

3) put your table on the sa****ses (or similar) and your ready to rumble!


[image]


4) Barbed Wire Bats

Design 1

This is a style of barbed wire bat that I believe that my promotion originated. the basic idea is that there is on actual barbed wire in it but it is made look that way by the layers of chicken wire crossing over each other.

What you need:
2x4 (or other peice of wood)
at least 5ft of chicken wire (the more the better)

pretty self explanitory here, basically just wrap the chicken wire around the 2x4 and your there.


Design 2

this design does not use barbed wire either but looks EXTREMELY realistic (it even catches on shirts and stuff) yet would never hurt a fly.

What you need:

2x4 (or other wood)
10ft (more the merrier) metal wire.

Directions:

1) Wrap the first 6ft (assuming you are using 10ft) really tightly then leave an inch or so per foot afterwards

2) when that is done, every 4 inches or so up the looser wire, twist the wire into a little barb, making sure that the ends arent too pointy.

[image]

(just an example of how the wire needs to be twisted)

As I said before, this is a great design because you can see the barbs very clearly on camera and they even catch on loose clothing or hair.

You now have a really good and safe barbed wire bat! enjoy!

5) Thumbtacks

These thumbtacks look pretty good but sure are a bugger to make and clean up... do dont say i didnt warn you!

What you need:

5-10ft of reasonably thick wire (like the kind of wire in chain link fences)

A really long wrestling DVD to watch while making them (I suggest wrestlemania XX or The Chris Benoit story)

Tools:

Tin-snips (or maybe just strong scissors)

a Bucket (for your cut "tacks" to fall into)


Directions:

Simply cut your wire every half inch or so and make sure that it falls into the bucket (offcuts are a bitch to get out of your living rooms carpet floor, which I am assuming your sitting on because you are watching a wrestling DVD)

After about 3 hours, you should have callices, cuts and scrapes all over you hands and you should have a bucket about a 3rd full of safe, easy (cough) and realistic thumbtacks

Note: if you are the obsessive complusive type and cannot possibly get bored of cutting up wire, you make want to try to cut the ends on the tacks into syringe style (pictured below) points.
This way, the tacks will catch onto clothing during matches.

[image]

Thats it with part 2 for now, If I feel like adding more weapons (as I think of / invent them) I will.


Part 3

Extras to spruce up your shows


Pyro

***While this stands for the whole guide, I feel the need to especially emphasise the point now rather than at the end of the guide and that is that I take ABSOLUTELY NO responsibility for any injurys, deaths, damages ect. caused by making or using anything from this guide***

There are a number of ways to do Pyrotechnics for your shows, all of the ones listed here are cheap, easy and effective. Just keep in mind that building your own pyrotechnic devices is not a reccomended activity for people who are not able to follow the instructions set forward here in their utmost to avoid injury.

1) The dudleys style "firework from the roof"

This is really easy to set up and equally easy to operate. With that being said, it is not the bets pyro option for beginners (#2 would be more ideal for such people).

What you need:

A place higher than your entrance way

1x Aluminium Drip tray ($4 from your local car maintenance place like supercheap auto, autobarn, maybe walmart for you americans)

Methylated spirits

Half of a brick

Sparklers

Fishing line


Directions:

Fill the drip tray up about a quarter full

Drill a hole in your brick (unless there is already holes in it)

Attach a length of fishing line to your higher place with tape.

Thread the other end through the hole in the brick

Put sparkler (with the wire bit folded into a loop) onto the wire

Light

Boom! (or at least a bit of fire and some black smoke

[image]


If you dont feel confortable with this design, dont do it.


2) Sparkler pyro

This type of pyrotechnic is more suited to younger and less experienced wrestlers because it is easy, cheap & realatively safe compared to the above design
This uses the same physics as a sparkler bomb but without the explosion (this just produces alot of fire and smoke but no explosion)

What you need:

20< sparklers
Bucket with sand in it
thin metal wire (basically anything but solder)

Directions:

1) take all but 1 sparkler and bundle them together

2) insert the 1 sparkler half way into the clump (making sure that at least half of the flammable stuff is inside the sparkler clump

3) affix this structure together in 2 places (toward the top the of the clum and towards the bottom)

4) (optional) feel free to wrap a single strip of electric tape around the wire to ad strength

5) Place this bare wire first into the bucket of sand

6) light the sparkler coming out the top, this acts as a fuse and when the sparks get down into the sparkler clump, it will produce tounges of flame 50cm into the air (assuming you are using about 30 sparklers) and even higher with more sparklers.


You can see a demonstration of this method of pyrotechnic here: http://youtube.com/watch?v=mRGkXOmV9YA&search=sparklers

Admittedly, they used 720 sparklers but for someone who is just starting out, 20 - 100 is just fine!


Smoke

I cant think of an easier (and safer) way to make smoke than actually going out and buying a cheap $30 smoke machine from your local shop.
This will last you ages and the only thing you will have to worry about is buying smoke liquid (or you could just use water but to a lesser effect).
A cheap smoke machine looks something like this:
[image]
You then set it facing 45 degrees upwards through your entrace way and when it is time for your big entrance, let the smoke fly!

The HARD(er) way of making smoke

This design is similar to the recipie used to make smoke bombs which is one of the most searched for "bomb" recipie on the internet.

Credit for this recipie / instructions goes to DiasasterMaster from the pyrotech forums:


Quote:

By far, the most common smoke formula is the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar formula. It produces a white-gray smoke and is both easy, inexpensive & fun to make. The percentage of Potassium Nitrate and Sugar in this composition vary somewhat depending on who you ask, but the 60/40 mix listed below is pretty common.

A lump of this stuff the size of your thumb produces a decent sized smoke cloud in under 2 seconds.

(Tip: Do not use this recipe to make a large smokebomb. In my experience even a low oxidized mix will cath fire if large enough.)

Mixture=
Potassium Nitrate 60 %
Sugar 40 %

(Measurements by weight)

Although the two ingredients can just be finely powdered and mixed together, in recent side-by-side tests, we found that melting the two together does in fact make a superior Smoke Bomb.
To melt the mixture together, you'll need small metal saucepan or other heat resistant container, and an electric hot plate. An electric hot plate is preferred to an open flame heat source because it's a tad safer, and easier to prevent overheating of the mixture, however you may use a stove but be careful

The mixture must be heated SLOWLY, and over a LOW heat until it just starts to melt.
Heating it too quickly, or at too high a temperature will cause it to turn black, burn & ignite making a giant mess, not to mention a fire hazard. In any case, this should all be done outside just in case you overheat it does happen to ignite. As the mixture begins to melt, it will turn brown and look exactly like Carmel Candy... after all, you are melting Sugar (and no, you can NOT eat it ).
A step-by-step procedure is outlined below....

Procedure

Start by making a small size batch (50 grams total). Measure out 30 grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar into a container. If you make a batch larger than 50 grams, it will be very difficult to mix and heat evenly. You can always make more, so don't mix up a giant batch.

Cover the container and shake it to mix the two chemicals together. Pour the mixture into a heat resistant container and set it on your heat source.

Set the heat source temperature to low (medium-high for a hotplate), and about every 30 seconds or so, stir the mixture well, being sure to scrape the material that may start sticking to the bottom.

Over the next several minutes, the mixture will begin to darken and clump. It will soon begin to look like brown sugar, and when it finally mixes smoothly and looks like peanut butter, it is done. If you mixture is turning BLACK, you're heating it a too high of a temperature.

Remove the container from the heat, and scoop out a lump of the sticky mass. You can either just plop some on the concrete outside, or if you're picky about the way your smoke bombs look, you can make small cardboard molds and press the gooey mass into them. Personally, we just lay it on the concrete.

Before the little blob cools, insert a small piece of Fuse.

Continue scooping the remainder of the material and allow them to cool and harden.

In about 5 minutes, the material will be cool and become rock hard ( beware that it will stick to the surface while cooling, but is easily removed with a little knock from a hammer. ) Set your Smoke Bomb away from any flammable materials, light the fuse and stand back.
These smoke bombs burn fast and sometimes will jump around a bit. They do produce a little flame when burning, so be careful not to ignite them in or near dry grass, papers, etc. Enjoy!

Note:
The smoke from this mixture is essentially non-toxic (against common belief), but that doesn't mean you should stand in a cloud of it and breathe it all day long.
Like any smoke from burning material, people may be allergic to it, or is my cause eye irritation in some more sensitive folks.



Another way so make smoke is making the obvious route of burning something like wood but the effect created by this is mediocre at best.

Lighting your smoke

There are a number of ways to create the popular effect of coloured smoke (as used in all the major promotions for the last 20 years).

The easiest (but not the cheapest) method is to buy a karakoke light ball which looks something like this:
[image]
Now, you can now light your smoke by placing the light ball on the inside of your entranceway next to the smoke machine.

Another, very cheap way of lighting smoke is by using normal christmas tree / fairy lights around your entranceway.
[image]
These lights look ok but do not look as professional as the light ball method.
Another disadvantage is that the cheaper light bulbs will only last you for a year or so and will need to be replaced.
But hey, when a large light string is only $10, how can you go wrong?

You can also use cheap strobe lights that you can get for $5 at your local shop but with only 1 colour, it can look very dull
[image]


Sound

For your entrance music / Mic ect, a CD player set on its loudest volume should be more than adequate for a backyard fed but as you know, there are some people who want to take it that step further. This involves setting up a complex sound system that I know nothing about and dont pretend to. It is my guess that wiring instructions ect. for this type of sound system can be found all over the internet and I feel no need to post those methods here.
Instead, this section focuses of effectiveness of the sound and the positioning on the sound machine to get the ultimate effect.

Mic setup

To get a cheap microphone, go to you local cheap store (for my fellow aussies, a Crazy Clarks, Silly Sollies or warehouse store would be where to go) and look in the electronics section. You should find a basic mic that would plug into the Audio input of your CD player for only $5 - $10. To add an extra effect to your pyro setup, it wouldnt be too much of a bad idea to buy a "Y" microphone splitter and another microphone. By placing the extra microphone near your pyro setup, you will get an even better explosion noise.
For those who dont know, A "Y" splitter looks something like this:

[image]
With 2 inputs to 1 output, it greatly expands what you can do with your mic setup.


Part 4

Promoting Your Show

This question has been raised alot in the past months and as a result, I have decided to do a bigger section on it that I had originally intended / planned, so here goes:


What needs to be conveyed in an advertisement:

Who - What BYW promotion is putting on the show

What type of show it is - You can convey the message that you are having a hardcore style show by having, say, barbed wire all over your poster.

Where - Exact address, including any details of how to acess the area if any complications are likely to arise.

When - The exact time. - try not to make the event too long (or at least on the advirtisement ;D )

What they are likely to see - Words like "Action", Excitement are probably the two most frequently used words in the advirtising of wrestling shows and that is because they are very descriptive and can really win over a potential audience member.

Cost - If you really must have a cost.

If you are charging admission, why? - It is best to say proceeds are going to a reputable charity.


So it is all well and good to have these points written down here but how do you actually get this message across to the public?


frequently used Advertising stratagys:

Word of Mouth:

Pros:
Free
You can reach a large group of people at a time
You can personally answer the questions of interested people


Cons:
It is only as memorable as you make it
It can take a long time
People who lack public speaking skills will suffer


FLYERS:

Pros:
Easy to mass distribute
can also be used as a poster
can be put in shops / other well frequented areas (with the permission of all involved of course)
Letterbox drops are very effective

Cons:
Many flyers must be made
They take alot of time to design
They can end up costing quite a bit



Business cards

NOTE: business cards work better if there is a uniform schedual of shows (ie a show every weekend etc) because otherwise, it is difficult to fit in all that information

Pros
See flyers

Cons
See flyers


Local newspapers

Local rags are great for advertising your shows, especially since some papers will allow you to advirtise for free (especially if you promise them something in return) and will be seen by locals only

Pros:
Cheap and sometimes free
Easy (can be done by phone or the internet)
Will be seen by a large number of people in your area
Effective

Cons:
Cheap and free ads are bound to be small and near the back pages
Your advirtising proposal may not be taken seriously if you are under 16



Other methods

Telemarketing

Now this sounds insane but it is possible. there is a program called Adcalls that allows you to call any US phone number for free, you can get it from http://www.adcalls.com.
For those of us who arent in the US (like me) there is an equally featured program called voipbuster which you can get from http://www.voipbuster.com. Only complication is that free calls from voipbuster can only last 1 minute (which could be all you need)

Pros:
Can reach a large number of veiwers, including the rarely targeted demographic of "closet" wrestling fans

Cons:
Considered illegal in some areas (or some people think it should be illegal)
Expensive (If you use a phone that is)
Irritates people
Can take quite a while

TV

If you contact a local network and ask for some advertising space (or even for a show timeslot) the prices can go from anywhere between $50 to $1000 (depending on program length, timeslot).
NOTE: bear with me, this isnt as insane as it sounds

Pros
Reach a phenominal amount of people
Easy to get advertising space (especially local networks)
Creates an air of professionalism ("as seen on TV")

Cons:
VERY Expensive
Ads take time to make (did you really think that the network would make the ad for you?)

Pasted from another forum I am not a BYW man
 
To do what> BYW? Then it depends. If you mean look at the link, it's free
 
If you call getting busted open with a stick hurtful then yes. Just click the link and then scroll down the page
 
Fun yes and no. There can be many things where you could flal on your neck or botch a move easily. hardCore is hurtful but gets lots of media attetion. I guess it's fun. Just be safe
 
Thanks. Okay BATISTAFAN. I will PM you some pics later. Media Attetion is like the news. Like if you nearly kill eachother with weapons in matches. people will tell people and you could get written about it magazines and stuff.
 
Well, Kinda yeah I guess, I dont BYW I just learn about it. How old are you? I can find a good type of fed for you
 
Cake sheets also work extremely well you can smack someone as hard as u can and it doesn hurt.
 
wow, u did ur homework for some1 who doesnt byw, some of the stuff i read like the ring design, i dont like, just do a simply design like my feds, it costed us $250, witch is really cheap, and has lasted for years,
DSC02217.jpg

DSC02226.jpg

DSC02244.jpg


finished ring
DSC02307.jpg


for info and any other byw stuff pm me
 

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